I’d say that “extension” is ambiguous (though possibly a correct term of art). The inner optical barrel is pretty nicely exposed now. As a guy who's owned probably every Nikon lens ever made, even for Nikon's 1940s-1960s rangefinder cameras, I'm astonished at how this one lens replaces every other lens I used to use, with the exception of ultra-ultra wides. This part is located in the center of the mount ring and I think serves as a dust cover, or possibly just aestetics to the rear of the lens. With these guides out, ensure that the metal guides and attached flat flex cables are free, because we will have to rotate the in between barrel. The Not Very Long Awaited Teardown of the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS . May 14, 2020 Lensrentals cracked open the brand new $9,500 AF-S NIKKOR 120-300mm f/2.8E FL ED SR VR lens this week, putting the behemoth of a zoom lens to the test. Share. With the PCB off, we can see there are shims under the rear group (they’re the thin brass line). This seems like a good place to stop. The front view showed the paired stepper motors that move the focusing group, and the two flexes that power them. With those removed and a few more things detached, we were able to slide rear inner barrels off as a unit. For info on properly removing these pieces, see my last post where I repaired a similar lens. He’s a wizard at doing all this without ever touching the glass, but sometimes he doubts his own abilities. Cotton = massive source of fibers. Even though loose, it was firmly trapped by an inner barrel. This setup needs a clean room… , I can tell you they use kapton tape inside nuclear weapons. Ensure that you choose a NIKKOR lens that matches your camera’s image sensor format: select from DX or FX formats. This is why we don’t do videos of teardowns; they’d be incredibly dull. This part manages the mechanical interface to the camera body for control of the lens aperture. I don’t know. As you can probably tell from our struggles doing this disassembly, the Nikon Z lenses are very different than their legacy lenses. As you can see from the image above, Nikon puts actual connectors in the flex runs that can be disconnected; we much prefer that rather than long runs of a single flex that has to be traced and untaped. Note, I’m going to be making up names for these parts, as I don’t have an official reference. You can’t see it from the image, but the post is eccentric, it would be adjusted during assembly to fine-tune the aperture size accurately. I’ve gotten lucky on a couple, but even broken these lenses can still go for almost 50% of their original value, depending on the lense. Here’s a good shot of the adjustable collar for the mechanical aperture function (top center). Always be careful with the lens elements. Then a puller is used to remove each collar. Tape is probably an inadequate description; that’s a nice piece of 0.5mm heavy-duty plastic. Autofocus, like lens disassembly, is a complicated profession. Here it was lunch break, and we weren’t even halfway done with disassembly. The lens control barrel isn’t attached mechanically, so these two barrels can be separated. Oh, and speaking of those white cotton glove videos? I destroyed the first of drivers I had been using trying to free these screws. As I’ve wished for dozens of times, Nikon has now made a neatly engineered lens with flexes laid out logically. This would be adjusted using an ‘occulter’ (basically a sized target) so the aperture is the proper diameter. I’ve been to a few dozen factory and authorized repair centers. I would simply caution people that taking engineering reports of how well a given motor does this or that may not be very well reflected in how a lens performs autofocus. Step 1 Nikon D600 Teardown . The Nikon 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5D AF push-pull zoom is a great FX lens that works perfectly on all FX digital and 35mm Nikons.. Next I’ll remove the rear most lense element. These seem to be a ‘flip up’ type, and the cable should remove easily after flipping the black part of the connector. These lenses are only compatible with 1-mount cameras. The "new" lens sports only two real changes, neither of them useful: you get some trim that is nostalgic (but not a totally nostalgic aperture ring ;~), and the focus ring has been adjusted to … I have seen many videos on sensor cleaning, but of course suspect few people do more than give them a passing blow. The next step is undoing all the flexes and removing the PCB. 2 sept. 2013 - The website ifixit.com published their detailed instructions and pictures on how to teardown a Nikon D600 camera. Four years ago, Sony fired the first shot of this battle with the A7 and continued to release one iteration after another, each improving on the last, and did so completely unanswered by the competition until August 23rd of this year when Nikon announced the Z7 and the Z6. That’s why you see us putting little marks on them during disassembly.). Going back to the optical barrel, we get to see something we don’t see this well very often – the working of a secondary aperture. Lets start with the parts that came in the box, since these are already off the lense. It’s held by 3 screws in the mount ring. Only when some of the magnification difference when zooming occurs behind the aperture is compensation of the absolute aperture diameter required, and only to the extent of the amount of magnification occurring behind the aperture. By Roger Cicala. Before we start, a quick break to do some QA bitching. Lensrentals cracked open the brand new $9,500 AF-S NIKKOR 120-300mm f/2.8E FL ED SR VR lens this week, putting the behemoth of a zoom lens to the test. Along with the Df, Nikon released a new version of the 50mm f/1.8G AF-S lens as the kit lens. The tripod mount comes off after removing four Phillips #00 screws. Because on April 10th I bought a Nikon D3100, not knowing about the new D5100. Very nicely done. Combining outstanding optics with sophisticated design and features, Nikon compact digital cameras capture your everyday precious moments. (If you haven’t done a reassembly, I should mention that most pieces will fit in any of 3 different rotations. FX lenses will fit both types of … The highest attention to detail is paid to every aspect of every lens that bears the name Nikkor. Now there will be a 20-minute break while Aaron replaced collars while holding the group, so it didn’t fall forward and bang into stuff. That’s where buyers of expensive lenses look inside, see dust, and lose their mind because they think lenses are assembled in NASA clean rooms, and ‘weather-resistant’ means ‘hermetically sealed like a vacuum jar.’. 77mm filters, 28.1 oz./796g, 1.6'/0.5m close focus. Thankfully, the whole thing comes off as one piece, no gears spilling all over the place, which was a nice surprise. I mean, it got in there somehow, and somehow wasn’t through the back.). The small arm protrudes out the back of the lense while the long arm extends into the lens and opens/closes the aperture. Just so you know, my original title was “Lens Disassembly is a Complicated Profession. Our brand new Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera arrived at the office this week, and we immediately got down to business. It’s been years since we damaged a lens during a disassembly. Now we’ll move on to the next episode of “Roger and Aaron make bad choices.” We still have a couple of helicoid barrels, focusing and zoom lens groups, at least one adjustable group, the aperture, and the focusing motors in a fairly compact piece that needs to be disassembled. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R. While no reason is needed to take apart another lens to see what goodies lurk within, Roger specifically notes he chose this lens because he wanted to see if the new modern design of Nikon’s Z-mount lenses is being carried over to newer F-mount lenses as well. It will not be cheap. The hardware isn’t as robust as Canon’s, but certainly seems adequate for the job. Finally, you’ll notice there’s a lot of yellow tape. Notably, trying to find cheap lenses on EBay and repairing them. It connects to the main board via flat flex cable. This may cause the entrance pupil to change size (appear larger as the focal length increases) even though the physical aperture does not. Then there are designs where the physical aperture does, in fact, change size and so does the entrance pupil. But they do look all professional, don’t they? Going in from the back, we start by removing the usual three tiny screws that hold the rear baffle in place. There’s another light baffle back here, which is always a good thing. We’ll look fondly back on this step, because ‘slides right off’ isn’t going to happen much more. I recieved the item still in it’s dissasembled state. Note that the AF controller is wired right to the AF motor, no connectors. There are two tabs on the side of the ribbon to help with that. You know shit’s getting real when Aaron puts on gloves. Despite all this, the bottom line is 45 minutes later, we still hadn’t gotten the display barrel off and couldn’t see where the flex was stuck. Three screws hold it to the lens, and two more hold the connector in place. Scott Adams would describe that as your having added an element to your “talent stack” which is the essence of different fields of expertise “coming in handy”. ... Nikon 120-300mm f/2.8 Teardown … This isn’t Aaron’s first rodeo, and he kept a good grip on the rear element as he removed the final post. Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 Z Lens Teardown Reveals Incredible Engineering and Brand New Design. The zoom keys are heavy-duty, as you’d expect. The Nikon does this mechanically. A look underneath the display ring shows you the button on the ring, just a rubber stopper that pushes the real button underneath, which allows more complete weather sealing. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. This certainly seems odd to me, but hey, it must work. Long ago, a visiting Canon engineer put a box on my workbench, grinned, and said: “You’re going to like this.” Then he pulled out a mock-up of the RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens, and my jaw dropped. This is the rearmost lense element in the assembly. We even removed the rubber and the underlying shield tape to see if we could get a look from the other side. (This was going to be more foreshadowing, except I ended up not talking about it anymore.). Nikon Resurrection: Repairing a Broken Lens | Hackaday. The flat flex connector for the main connector is a simple push/pull type without a lock, so you can just slide it out. It’s for what we refer to as FELD (First Expensive Lens is Dusty) syndrome. Finally, Aaron found an almost invisible seam that indicated a possible makeup ring and using the rarely required thumbnail tool was able to remove it. This is the electrical interface to the camera. For the purpose of repairing the lens, I may be able to clean the glue residue off and with some kapton tape and delicate soldering, maybe repair the flat flex. More specifically, to record all the internal parts, such to examine the used part market on these items, as well as to increase my understanding such that I can perform more complex repairs in the future (my first couple attempts were easy). It is not a matter of lens designers “cheating” users out of extra aperture or entrance pupil size, it’s just different ways of designing the lenses. The Nikon F-mount is a type of interchangeable lens mount developed by Nikon for its 35mm format single-lens reflex cameras.The F-mount was first introduced on the Nikon F camera in 1958, and features a three-lug bayonet mount with a 44 mm throat and a flange to focal plane distance of 46.5 mm. This contains all of the optical elements other than the front, the focusing motors, aperture assembly, and of course, the cams and barrels for the zoom elements. The ring fits into a grove on the inside of the mount ring and the spring also anchors to the mount ring, providing a return mechanism. We were concerned that streak was about to end, but it was getting close to lunchtime, and we were hungry. So long, in fact, that Aaron left things out to put back together tomorrow. We’ll have to remove these to get the lense out of the helical barrel. While we were looking around, though, we did see that there was a nice adjustable eccentric collar under the display ring. We just couldn’t remove the rear inner barrel. On the backside is a small cam that inserts into a barrel slot. Remove that first to avoid damaging the wiper arms. A clean room. Your email address will not be published. In addition to the Nikon Z7 teardown by Kolarivision, LensRentals also published their teardown of Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera. Dude, you’re breaking my heart. I’ll take a moment to discuss that pretty yellow tape we’ve seen scattered about the lens. DL Cade. I attach the anchors to the backs of the screws in the screw card so I don’t lose them. This lens was a joy to use, I gave the Nikon Z7 back to the Nikon staff after a minute or so with it because it was too easy to use. It will not be at all cheap. Some new coatings are used on these elements, so we’re avoiding touching; some coatings are more delicate than others. The camera is close to perfect and I wanted to challenge myself so I whipped-out my Nikon FE2 along with this lens and shot these models. You don’t care, I know, but for people working on the lens ‘zero mark at 12 degrees forward’ is a lot more accurate than ‘the fatty part is towards the front a bit’. We’re like the Harlem Globetrotters of lens disassembly. But we didn’t see what more information we’d obtain, and this disassembly had already been one of the longest ever. This assembly is basically two parts with three compression springs pulling the aperture assembly (in the front) towards the zoom element (in the rear). It’s a really minor thing, and yeah, we can super glue it back down, but this is too frequent. Even after removing the screws, it took a little force to pull it off, almost a suction-like effect. It has a very nice touch; the zero position is marked on it. By Roger Cicala. Nikon developed an entirely new system of lenses and the Nikon 1-mount lens mount for the Nikon 1 series. You could see the weather sealing in the above image, but this one also shows the ESD (electrostatic discharge) cushions that are under this ring. I get beat with ‘dust in the lens’ all day, every day. Superb! And shallower wells in the rear group. This is not marketing department weather resistance. The engineering itself is incredible in most ways. After thous are removed, the front housing is almost free, as there is a silver tab holding it in, that appears to serve as a limit for the zoom twist. Now we go back, again remove the cams from the focusing group, and take it out through the front of the inner barrel. I see two screws that seem to be holding the assembly around the motor together, so I will remove those. (Huge usually equals about 0.1mm to 0.2mm; but lenses, as we learned in grade school, make things look bigger.) I’ll have to admit I was stuck for a bit at this point. Of course, there is a good, foamed weather seal at each barrel joint. (We couldn’t see exactly what was going to come out at this point, but we were comfortable something would. You can also see evidence of the first attempt at a simple fix, as there is cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) residue around the connector. There is only one screw in each board, so that part is easy. To put it in perspective, lunch is usually between disassembly and reassembly. There’s the usual rubber weather sealing ring under the bayonet. Except we discovered that once it was fully released and free in the back of the barrel, the focusing group won’t fit through the rear of the lens barrel. Nikon Lens Teardown; Nikon Lens Repair #1; Old Printer, New Rock Tumbler; Scoreboard Digits in the Toaster Oven; Unmodified Toaster Oven Reflow Test; Recent Comments. I will complain about the fact that filter-ring or hood-slot damage means an expensive repair. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3670644ad4ea81d41a96a46e8404d7b79b01f35a304d1a222d18767fb2642780.png. Entirely our fault, now that we know the right way in it could be done in a couple of hours, tops. We can also see the optical sensor that is activated when you turn the control ring. The electronic zoom sensor is held in place by a couple of screws (already removed in this image). Tweet. But it’s a nice touch. The inner barrel is now empty, other than a few cams and the various flexes passing hither and yon. So if you break off the filter ring or hood slots, this is the disassembly that has to be done to replace it. Once that’s done, we went back around to the front. The taping of every possible point that Loctite or anything else could get in the lens does, too. Nikon 28-300mm VR. The bayonet is held in place by the usual four screws. 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Mean, it becomes clear I had been using trying to free screws. Springs sit about 1/3 of their length in fairly deep wells in the back we! Nikon developed an entirely new system of lenses and the various flexes passing and... That works perfectly on all FX digital and 35mm Nikons why you see us putting little on. Difficulties in the images at all a similar lens. ) off is still a bit hard to see screws. Went even further, building in nice channels for the Nikon Z lenses, are a completely optomechanical! Sits tight against the rear element and the main connector them when they saw what I did McMaster-Carr calls extension.
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